(Days 1 – 10)
WE’RE FINALLY HERE.
Thirty-four hours after leaving Little Rock, we landed in Nice (LR-Dallas-London-Nice on American and British Air). We stayed in a chambre d’hôte which is like Airbnb used to be – a bedroom and bath in a private home with breakfast provided by the host. It was modest and completely acceptable and safe in an excellent location. We were anxious to explore the old town and signed up on line for a free guided walking tour. When we were in Spain a few years ago, we discovered these tours where the guides, who are usually advanced students, wear red tee-shirts, carry red umbrellas, and work for tips. They are excellent.
During our two hour walk on Friday, we spent time in the main market and tasted socca for the first time. Socca is a traditional Niçoise specialty — like a pizza baked over a wood fire on a large cast iron skillet — consisting of a crust of chickpea flour and water with a topping of olive oil, and just a little salt and pepper. Believe me. It’s a delicious snack. According to our guide, the narrow streets and tall houses with red tile roofs look much like they did 300 years ago. The name of each street is written in Niçois, the old Nice language, and in modern French.
There is a Russian community here, apparently because three of the czarinas escaped the bitter Siberian cold by wintering in Nice. Queen Victoria liked it too and her favorite tearoom is still popular.
After a stroll along the Promenade des Anglais, which borders the Mediterranean and stretches seven kilometers from the Nice airport to the Nice castle, we finished our guided walk at the top of the hill. The castle, which was really a fort, was destroyed by Louis XIV, and the broken rocks were used to form the base of the Promenade des Anglais. In the evening, we enjoyed an excellent dinner. A pretty good first day!
On Friday morning, we UBER’d to the Chagall Museum. Since we were almost the only ones there, we were able to admire the progression of his biblical scenes at our leisure.
In the evening, we dined on bouillabaisse and octopus in the old port. There were two enormous yachts anchored there — one owned by an Arab and the other by a Russian. Neither seemed to be going anywhere.
Villefranche-sur-Mer
(the first town east of Nice on the Mediterranean)
We survived our first week of school! Each day at the Institut de Français is long (8:30 – 5:00) and intense with seven different levels of students placed in classes of ten to twelve each. Every single spoken word must be in French – even during breaks and meals. Break the rules and pay a 2€ fine for each transgression. At the end of the day, everyone is exhausted — even the teachers. We continue speaking French even when it is just the two of us because we really, really want to improve. Breakfast and lunch are provided by the school and the meals are delicious. If only we could drink wine with them, we would probably begin to speak fluently. But, zut, alors! No chance. (Our teacher says “Zut, Alors” is only used in movies but I have trouble believing her because it is so useful and much nicer than the other French expletives we’ve heard.)
Most of the students are American. The others are from Australia, Brazil, Canada, Russia, Ukraine, Norway, Sweden, England, and Germany. The instructors, who are all native speakers, are superb. The pretty Russian lady cries all the time because she is so ashamed of her country and because she has friends in Russia who don’t believe a war is going on. The two Ukrainiens are quietly stoic.
This morning, we went to the small Saturday market at the port – a short walk down a very steep hill. Coming back was a challenge since, as we always do at home, we bought too much. The various local cheeses, vegetables, fruits, and flowers were irresistible. We lunched on yummy paella and dined on roasted chicken legs and thighs with tiny potatoes that had benefited from the chicken fat dripping from the rotisserie above.
Hi to all who are reading this. We miss you and so hope all is well with you.
Travel in Le Troisième Âge 
Excellent depart!
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Nice!
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So much fun! Yall are living the life!😎
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I feel like I am walking along side. I am thrilled for you two 💝
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Beautifully written! Look forward
to reading future episodes.
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Thank you so much for the excellent recap of your first week in France. I’m very jealous of the food, not the class. I admire your stamina. Your comment on the Russian/Ukraine students was much appreciated.
Nothing much going on here. Lousy golf day. Spent last week in LR and saw my mother a lot.
Keep the info coming.
Miss you.
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R and D. … thanks for taking us along on your journey… Sounds absolutely quaint and memorable! xoxo
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Love seeing your story!
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Sounds like a bon de’part !
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How wonderful!! Thank you for sharing.
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Thank you so much for including me in your travels! I look forward to following along on your adventures…..
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How great!!! We feel like we’ve experienced along with you. Thanks for that! Take care, sending love….❤️❤️
Sent from my iPhone
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, I hope you are getting some rest in the midst of all the activity and studying. Lots of love, di Thanks,
Diane Lyons (501) 352-7589
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Really enjoying your posts. Got to France & Germany a few years ago but not to the area you Are in. So glad for the pictures! How unusual to be unable to drink wine all day!! But know You are there to learn! Thanks for including us in your sharing!! Please continue.
Have more fun
Love Catherine Donovan
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What fun you are having! Love reading about your exploits and seeing the pictures! Look forward to reading more about your adventures in the days to come
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What a terrific travelogue. The photos are great! Wish we were there with you to enjoy all that good food and drink, although I don’t think we we do well with the language. We think of you guys often and wish you the best.
All is well here,
Joe and Judith
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Ouh! J’apprecie vraiment que vous envoyiez ceci, c’est comme etre la. Je sais que vous passiez un moment merveilleux, j’aurais aime faire quelque chose comme ca quand j’etais un peu plus jeune. Continuez a envoyer ces e-mails, je les apprecie vraiment beaucoup. Don’t want to mess up your always speaking french………………lol excuse some of the spelling, my computer refuses to speak french.
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What a wonderful treat! Love “seeing” these places through your eyes! Food sounds fabulous!
Enjoy!
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Hi Diane and Renie! I was able to get on to read the four wonderfully descriptive installments.
We love the area you were in and sorry I couldn’t have emailed you earlier. We have stayed in this area about four times over the years and have enjoyed it so much! If you get back that direction be sure to go to Renoir’s house. The house and grounds are just wonderful, and the view down to the Mediterranean is spectacular. I am so thrilled you are sending out these personal experiences and thoughts! Thank you!! Marian
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Hi Diane and Renie, I think about you every time I walk by your door at Big Blue. I hope the Ukraine war does not put any damper on your planning.
You are a fantastic writer and photographer. It is like traveling along with you and experiencing the environment as well as the food…. I love the photo with the white wine…
I wish we could talk about your trip in person…. By now your French must bu superb !
Love from Kansas City,
Jackie
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