Exploring the Alpes-Maritimes

We have wheels! A brand new Renault Captur that we reserved months in advance. We used Auto Europe, a rental wholesale company, after individual agencies quoted prices that broke the bank. It’s a four door with a hatchback — big enough for us and our stuff but hopefully small enough to avoid disaster as we squeeze by the walls and through the narrow streets of old villages. When I spotted the advertising sign at the first gas station, I was surprised by the low cost of fuel — until I realized the 1.862€ posted price was for one liter. One gallon would be 7.15€ or about $7.87.

Our first rental house, La Farigoulette, is a gîte about 12 miles above Nice — high up in the foothills of the Alpes. It is near St. Blaise, a village with fewer than 1000 residents that is situated on land given to a religious abbey in 1075. We achieved one of our primary objectives — to stay in areas where no one speaks english.

Our patio at La Farigoulette in Saint Blaise

Our ancient house is large and comfortable, decorated with a mix of antiques and flea market finds. Spring flowers bloom in the garden next to vining rosemary and thyme. If only it would warm up. Days are sunny but cooler than usual. Every day we walk about 5 miles along the treacherous mountain roads where hairpin turns come along every 500 meters or so. We cling to the outside shoulder – our only choice since sheer granite walls line the other side. We are lazily enjoying being unscheduled.

Passageway in Saint-Paul-de-Vence


We have visited Saint-Paul-de-Vence before but wanted to go again to be reminded of its charm. We passed through the 16th century gate and walked atop the ramparts before enjoying lunch on a terrace overlooking the valley of olive trees. Marc Chagall, Henri Matisse, Pablo Picasso, and Georges Braque are just some of the famous artists who discovered the character and tranquility of St. Paul in the past. Although the village stands as it has for centuries, it is now filled with curious tourists traveling from all over the world to visit the art galleries and souvenir shops located within the walls of one of the prettiest medieval towns on the Cote d’Azur.

But we seemed to be the only tourists in Haut de Cagnes, a beautiful perched village dating from the middle ages that was loved by artists such as Renoir and Modigliani. We did what we are best at – piddling – and wandered through the cobbled streets and alleys, time and again ending up where we’d started out.

Auguste Escoffier—“Chef of Kings and King of Chefs.”


We knew when we stumbled upon information about the museum located in the childhood home and birthplace of one of the world’s greatest chefs that we had to go. The Escoffier Museum of Culinary Art in the village Villeneuve-Loubet is the only museum of culinary art in France. Handwritten menus, family photos, awards including the Legion d’Honneur, his own writing desk, and many copper pans and cooking utensils are some of the items used to tell Escoffier’s life story. This former Chef of the Grand Hotel in Monte-Carlo, the Savoy Hotel in London where he created the dessert Peach Melba, the brand new Ritz Hotel in Paris (1898), who trained more than 2000 chefs-to-be is credited with giving french cuisine its worldwide reputation.


Now that we’ve had a week to rest and recover from our month of studies, we’re packing up and moving on from our haven in the mountains. On to Corsica . . .

— Renie and Diane, May 6, 2022

18 thoughts on “Exploring the Alpes-Maritimes

  1. Fabulous overview and we thank you.
    Remind me to never prepare any food for you of any sort as it will certainly be unacceptable in comparison to the cuisine you are currently enjoying.
    Happy Birthday yesterday to Dianne!
    Xoxo

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  2. Loved the latest installment!! Take care on those walks.

    Have you had any of the hundreds of culinary preparations of white asparagus? It’s that time of year.

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  3. Wonderful! Really appreciate you all doing this. We are enjoying the pictures, the commentary and the history…………..Don and Leesa

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  4. Diane, I assume you are the author, you could command a large salary as a travel writer. You both are having the “time of your life”.

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  5. Loved reading this and loved the pictures. I think the gite looked adorable. But now youre in Corsica and almost ready to move on. How I love living vicariously through your blog!!
    Anne

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  6. Bill just said, “She would be a great tour guide”!
    Thanks for the great “tour”. We love living it vicariously through you two! Great pic also. Be safe and pick safer routes to walk! Lots of love Vicki & Bill

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  7. I look forward to each of your updates. It sounds like you are having a wonderful time, and your trip is living up to your expectations. Stay safe and keep having fun!!

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  8. Loving your travel log and pics. So happy you are living your dream and in such beautiful quaint places. Jealous but it’s fun seeing it through your eyes. The descriptions bring back great memories of long ago trips. Keep them coming ❗️❤️

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  9. What a wonderful place to rest and explore for a week! The pictures are great. We, too, are living vicariously through you. Keep these wonderful updates coming!
    Bob & I send our love to you both

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  10. I’m playing catch up on all these but how wonderful and enjoyable! I’m so glad you get to spend this time together. Such memories you all will have and nothing knits our hearts closer to one another than adventures to look back on. Take care and much love!

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