— Kenny Rogers and Dolly Parton – 2013
Sanary-sur-Mer is a small picturesque town thirteen kilometers from the ferry landing in Toulon. Hotel de la Tour, our home for four nights, surrounds a medieval tower built to guard the village in the 13th century. It sits at the edge of a square next to the stone boardwalk that stretches along the Mediterranean in the pedestrian-only part of town. We roused Sunday morning to the sounds of vendors setting up the Provençal market on our doorstep. As the day went on, more and more people poured into the market area—so many that it took at least one-half hour to walk from one end to the other without stopping except to pick our way through the crowd. The marketed goods seemed typical with lots of inexpensive clothing, accessories, and household items together with local fruits, vegetables, cheeses, and wines. By evening, after the town emptied of day visitors, calm and quiet returned.
Monday morning in Sanary seems reserved for lovers. In the soft light of the early day, every passing couple holds hands as they stroll together along the quay. The fleet of one hundred colorful traditional wooden fishing boats line the rim of the ancient natural harbor. The oldest dates from 1895. There are others more than one hundred years old that have been designated as historic monuments. A small group of local fishermen sell their daily catch at the port each morning.
Our impetus for choosing to visit this part of southern France was an invitation from our close friends, Jean-Yves and Thérèse Caillot. Diane and Thérèse met at a French lecture in Kansas City thirty-five years ago. The Caillots spent five years in KC while Jean-Yves served as interim president of a local company recently purchased by his French employer. They were our family at Catherine’s First Communion and we were theirs at Thanksgiving. Both of their fathers were admirals in the French Navy and when the parents came to visit, we were honored to entertain them in our home.
Toulon is home to the French Navy and Jean-Yves and Thérèse recently renovated his parents home in nearby Ollioules. Our three days and nights as their guests included delicious lunches and dinners on the terrace and jaunts into Toulon and Ollioules. We drove to see their ongoing Covid-project reclamation and restoration of an ancestor’s housebarn where both Thérèse and her father had spent happy childhood days. Afterwards, they treated us to a Provençal Friday lunch tradition—Aioli, comprised of a platter of steamed fish and shellfish, another of roasted potatoes, carrots, and zucchini, all meant to be combined and topped with the flavorful garlicky sauce concocted according to the chef’s secret recipe. In the afternoons, Renie and Jean-Yves enjoyed the pool and the girls held their own against the boys in a hotly contested game of boules. When it came time to leave, it was hard to say good-bye.
Lambesc is in the heart of Provence and our gîte, Cabernet, nestles within vineyards that seem to extend for many miles. It’s still early in the season but thanks to about fourteen hours of sunlight, the vines appear to grow at least a foot a day. The flowering is over and clusters of tiny green grapes are plentiful. There isn’t much activity—just watching and waiting.
About thirty years ago, a young frenchman, Jean-Marie Wallerand, came to Little Rock to attend Catholic High. He lived with Renie and his family for a year. His parents Hildegarde and Marc remained close to Renie and we have stayed in their home in Monteleger near Valance. Happily, this time they came to visit us.
We cooked together, picnicked, visited Aix-en-Provence to see the places where they met and courted, and explored old churches, monasteries, and castles in the area. Not only was it wonderful to be with them again, but since they speak no English, we continued to use our French with the help of Hildegarde, our very able and encouraging prompter.
After four days of shared fun with good friends, we were alone again. During our visit to a 14th century church in Cadenet, we had noticed a poster advertising a coming concert by regional musicians. We think that old churches make excellent venues for musical events and provide great opportunities for people watching. So on the scheduled evening, we returned to Cadenet in time to enjoy a savory pre-concert dinner on the terrace of a restaurant overlooking the valley.
After a short walk up the main street of the old town, we joined the throng pouring into Saint Étienne. Families of every sort and size made up most of the crowd. My little neighbor on the next chair over was a boy about four who quietly colored his way through the evening, pausing only to clap his hands in unison with the congregation’s applause.
Three small regional orchestras, including one of cellos only, joined to present traditional and classical pieces. About half of the players were high school students who had obviously worked hard to perform the program in top form. There were compositions by Tchaikovsky, Prokofiev, and Sibelius; Irish ballads; and even Henry Mancini’s theme from the Pink Panther”. We were inspired, impressed, and reminded that beneath the surface of the sites we visit as tourists and the differing elements of another culture that we sample and find exotic, real people are going about their lives as we do or did—raising their families, practicing their music lessons, greeting friends who gather to enjoy an earnest effort at making something beautiful for their community. We were charmed.
Renie and Diane, May 29, 2022 — photos by Renie
Travel in Le Troisième Âge 
Martha and I are so enjoying reading about your travels.
John
John E. Tull III
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The connection you guys have with France is amazing: keep enjoying:
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Thanks for the wonderful description of Sanary-sur-Mer! We were fortunate enough to stop there on our cruise from Rome to Barcelona in 2019 and, as you did, we found it to be a delightful place. We attended mass in the small church which was beautifully decorated with pastel-colored frescoes. Later that day, we visited a small hill-top town, Le Castellet, and a winery, Domaine de Fregate. We regretted not having more time in that lovely area.
We are so glad that you are enjoying you time in France and look forward to future “travel-blogs” from you. Merci Beaucoup et de bons voyages!!
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Belles photos et partage … Merci
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You and Diane should write a travel book for retired Francophiles. Excuse spelling. I’m serious!!! Lee
Loving the travel diary.
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Ah, FC and FCS,
Glorious … again .. photos and superb writing makes you feel like you’re traveling along with you .. What a grand adventure !!!
Please keep your wonderful stories coming .. Love you, dear cousins.
FC2
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Magnifique! (jealous)
Thanks,
Diane Lyons (501) 352-7589
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It is so much fun to visit France with you! Thank you so much for taking the time to share your wonderful experiences. Looking forward to seeing you in Kansas City. Brendan >
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Renie and Diane, thank you so much for sharing your insights. The adventures and new experiences are exciting, but I especially understand and appreciate your connection to ordinary people and the realization of our connectedness in our everyday endeavors toward joy and love. Sent from my iPhone
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Thank you for doing this, it’s the best thing next to being there. Merci
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Keep it up, we love it. So happy all is welll. Take care, Vicki & Bill
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Wonderful pictures and wonderful descriptions. Being with old friends is the best! Enjoy your next stop along the way!
Love to you both,
Sandra & Bob
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C’est diane qui écrit ces mails? Comme l’écriture est la meilleure: toujours fascinant et passionné. Mais les sujets, tous les détails etc Je peux imaginer que je suis au marché avé vous deux! Et j’adore les marchés, les produits, bien sûr, mais aussi l’activite, les couleurs, et les dames qui touchent tous les fruits! Je me demande comment tu a choisi tous les villages et les gîtes? C’est précisément la région dont je voulais visiter avec Les et vous deux ( Provence au printemps). So I’m cursing timing of my salle de basin Je suis à dallas pour 100 th anniversaire de mon amie extraordinaire, Raida. Quelle dame! Pas trop de nouvelles de chez nous. On a fêté Mémorial Day sur ma terrasse avec quelques amis .. et le barbecue. Les a commencé de nager tous les jours et de continuer d’écrire son pièce. Moi, je pars Jeudi pour passer un longue week-end a New York avec Jessica et son 2 fils. On va chercher les bâtiments exceptionnels et historique. Tatum étudie, tu sais, l’architecture a Fayetteville. Vous rentrez ou? Vous me manquez beaucoup😝mais j’adore que vous vous amusez. Avec amour. B
Sent from my iPhone
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I just saw this email! At 3:57am in Chicago. It was buried in R’s “notifications” and he hadn’t seen it. Great info. Thanks! See you soon!
Xoxo
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Don and I are enjoying each description of scenery and food and the relationships you have with these friends. What an adventure!!
Recently we watched a show on Brit Box set in St. Etienne. It made us long to be there!!
We look forward to your next report!!!!
Beth and Don
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I don’t think I will be able to read any more of your travels. They leave me weak with desire to be with you and hungry for all the beautifully prepared food 🍱. Please send me a ticket. I promise to be good and not embarrass you in front of your wonderful friends! Your itinerary is enviable. Keep on enjoying your year in France. Send food. Jane Goff
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What’s the French word for “fabulous”? That’s what your adventure sounds like. Thanks for sharing!😀
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Diane and Renie,
Just now reading your blog and don’t want to stop! So glad you told me about it when you were in LR. And thanks so much for the “goodie bag”, Still enjoying it. Your trip sounds amazing, thanks so much for sharing.
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