Remember the Parisiens we mentioned in our last episode? The large number who vacated the City of Light to go on holiday in August? We caught up with almost all of them — in the French Alps, in Annecy.

We booked an apartment in Annecy with only one thing in mind – air conditioning. A prudent priority since on several days the temperature exceeded 100 degrees with high humidity. Annecy is a gorgeous town full of charm situated at the northern tip of the crystal clear glacial lake of the same name only about twenty-two miles from Geneva, Switzerland. It’s a hot spot for vacationers who create a festive atmosphere and swarm the beaches, streets, parks, and bicycle/walking paths.

We cope with the super-spreader crowds by exploring the medieval streets in the early morning, strolling through the many arcades and small passageways and crossing stone bridges that span canals beautifying the old town. In the evenings, we can’t resist walking the short distance to the huge city park on the lakeshore to admire couples Salsa-ing to lively music amplified on speakers by the DJ. It would be hard to feel unhappy in this party atmosphere – as long as you have a buddy to share it with.

Two special days captured our interest and highlighted our sojourn in this Haute-Savoie department in southeastern France.

The Glières plateau is a limestone plain located high in the mountains not too far from Annecy. During World War II, a group of members of the French Resistance, the Maquis, organized in the area. Their motto “Live free or die” motivated their clandestine efforts to combat the occupying German army and the Vichy, the French State that collaborated with Nazi Germany. The British chose this area for parachute drops of weapons meant to arm the Maquis. There are differing accounts of specifics, but the consensus is that between January and March, 1944, three drops were made comprising at least forty-five tons of munitions and equipment.

When the Vichy government failed to “clean up the nests of terrorists” as ordered by the Germans, about 5,000 German troops and Vichy police armed with heavy machine guns, mortars, and howitzers battled the 450 freedom fighters for two weeks. Finally, using ski patrols camouflaged in white for reconnaissance in the snow, the Germans killed about 150 Maquis and declared victory. It was a moral victory for the Resistance, however, which grew in numbers and legend and through its daring acts of sabotage against railroads, supply depots etc., became an important strategic weapon of the Allies.

Today the Glières plateau is a popular site for cross-country skiing in winter. In other seasons, hikers and curious individuals with a fascination for history visit this remote spot to pay their respects. In 1973, on the initiative of survivors of Glières, a large modern white sculpture was installed. Perhaps it is hands raising the sun toward the heavens, symbolizing hope and resistance.

A short way down the mountain from the Glières plateau, we noticed a sign offering cheese for sale at a nearby farm. Since that was exactly what we were hoping to find, we wheeled in and met Laure whose family has been making Reblochon, Tommes de Savoie, and Abondonce on this remote alpine plain for generations. We had a quick tour of the barn with its milking stations, the operation for making the cheese, and the room for maturation, then we tasted the buttery cheeses and bought our supply. Laure told us about the annual Fête du Reblochon that would be held the following Sunday leading us to our next great experience.

The forecast was for rain but that didn’t deter us from making the 45 minute drive to the small alpine village La Clusaz in time for an outdoor Catholic Mass at 10 o’clock – the event signaling the start of the Reblochon festival. Villagers, and especially cheese producers, dressed in traditional clothing. At the Offertory, various members of the community carried implements to the altar – instruments historically important to cheese production. One brought a milking pail. Another, a five gallon metal milk can. As the downpour began and the umbrellas went up, a congregant presented a long wooden pitchfork while another took up a milking stool. Men in historic dress played wooden alpine instruments measuring more than nine feet long to produce hymns in somber tones. Horns like these are used to summon the livestock from the mountain pastures to home.

At the conclusion of Mass, the secular celebration began. Strong arms stirred large vats of Reblochon, potatoes, onions, and cubes of fatty bacon to make the traditional Alpine specialty Tartiflette as their helpers dished up large platters to satisfy the hungry customers. Beer and wine were big sellers and went a long way to warm the drenched crowd. A local band dressed in regional costumes played their music and sang with the swaying horde. Craftsmen demonstrated their skills in splitting wood and making a classic wooden tiled roof from the slats. Eventually, the dancing began but not before the animals were summoned from on high and paraded through the festival site led by herdsmen ringing huge cow bells.

Sated with food, drink, and folklore, we took the long way home driving over one of the highest mountain passes in the French Alps and reflecting on the value of our own family and community traditions.

—Renie and Diane