Sharing what you love with someone you care about doubles the joy, so we were delighted when Presley and Jo Melton arrived in Nice to join our adventure. Diane pried herself away from her girls and their families in Kansas City after having enjoyed a wonderful Easter together and attending the birth of granddaughter Magnolia Christine, baby sister to Leo and Charlie. She returned to France and to Nice the same day as the Meltons.

The hills above Nice are dotted with medieval stone villages built on hills, perched on rocky outcrops, or balanced on the edge of the face of a cliff — strategically chosen defensive positions. Some lie in rocky ruins while others have been perfectly preserved or superbly restored.

Saint-Paul de Vence

Saint-Paul de Vence, the quintessential hilltop village in the Côte d’Azur, is a magnet for tourists as well as artists and art aficionados. Since at least the early 1900’s the soft light, the colors of the countryside, and the charming details of the peaceful livable village have captured the imaginations of painters and sculptors. Marc Chagall, Alexander Calder, Pablo Picasso, and Henri Matisse are just a few of the artists who have lived here. Priceless works, left by artists to settle their bills, surround patrons of the local Colombe d’Or hotel/restaurant. Art galleries abound within the fortified walls while the Foundation Maeght, home to one of the largest collections of modern art in Europe, overlooks Saint-Paul from its hillside perch.

Knowing of Jo’s interest in art and really in all things well designed and/or charming, we reserved a medieval-era dwelling in the heart of Saint-Paul for our four-night stay. The modern compact kitchen, adjacent breakfast room, spacious living room, and two large bedrooms and baths were perfect for two couples. Presley was named the best at choosing granola for breakfast and Renie was deemed hero sommelier. Jo excelled at laundry while Diane finally solved the mystery of the tv remote.

By day, visitors clog the narrow cobblestone paths that were originally designed to accommodate donkeys and carts, but the crowds clear out by late afternoon and galleries and shops remain open well into evening.

Villa et Gardens Ephrussi de Rothschild Saint-Jean-Cap-Ferrat & Monoco

This palace, located between Nice and Monaco, with its nine themed gardens overlooking the Mediterranean Sea, must be one of the most beautiful on the French Riviera. It was built as a winter residence by Beatrice Rothschild Ephrussi, daughter of Alphonse de Rothschild, prominent banker and renowned art collector, after she inherited her father’s immense fortune upon his death in 1905.

Our visit to Villa Ephrussi coupled with the visit by train to Monaco and the Casino at Monte Carlo was the ideal respite from the crowds in Saint-Paul. We loved showing Jo and Presley our favorite haunts in Villefranche-sur-mer before returning to our hilltop home.

Peillon

Diane first visited Peillon in the late 1980’s. She was lured there by her view of the village from the window of a restaurant on a neighboring hillside. Upon hiking over, she found not a single commercial establishment—no bakery, tabac, or restaurant—nothing but an eerily untouched medieval hamlet populated lightly by people and heavily by cats.

About twenty-five years later in 2004, on Diane’s second visit (to the village and to the restaurant) nothing had changed. But when recent research revealed the presence of a charming, well-reviewed restaurant within the walls, we decided to check it out.

The young chef took a shine to Jo. And the food was beyond delicious.

We agreed with Presley that whether baked or fried, stuffed zucchini blossoms are scrumptious.

What a surprise awaited on the back of the door in the unisex bathroom. His mom, a friendly, gregarious woman, told us that he was celebrating his 21st birthday and the launching of his first restaurant. Chef said that his Mom advised him to always put a carrot in the pot.

Restaurant Colombe d’Or was the perfect setting for dinner on our final night in Saint-Paul. As we reveled in the beautiful surroundings enhanced by priceless works of art and the ghosts of the memories of others before us, we raised a glass to toast the enduring importance of friendship and love.

We delivered our Avis rental car to the train station in Nice and boarded the assigned railcar for a 5 hour 40 minute trip to Paris on the fast train — the TGV — which shortens the journey by an average of 1 hour 39 minutes.

Once we got settled across the table from each other and Renie and Presley adjusted to the idea of facing each other for the next six hours, the 427 mile trip flew by, aided by sips of wine and beer and a picnic lunch of sausage, fruit, bread, and cheese.

Paris

Upon our arrival at Gare de Lyon, we were grateful to find a gargantuan taxi that could carry the four of us and our eight bags in the same vehicle. Arriving at the apartment on the Rue du Bac felt familiar and comfortable since it belongs to good friends and we have stayed there before. With two bedrooms and two baths, there was plenty of space for the four of us and so much more comfortable than staying in a hotel.

It didn’t take long for us to settle in for happy hour followed by a short stroll to a neighborhood restaurant.

During our three full days together in Paris, we each did our own thing then gathered together again in the evenings to share experiences before going out for dinner. Jo and Presley’s agenda included a full day at the Louvre museum and another at the Palace of Versailles, significant time at the Musée d’Orsay, a promenade through the Tuileries and along the entire Avenue des Champs-Elysées, a long walk to the Eiffel Tower that skirted the Musée de l’Armée with Napoleon’s Tomb, and plenty of other things. Together, we cruised the River Seine and visited the Place des Vosges.

But the biggest challenge we had was deciding each morning what combination of almond croissants, butter croissants, pain aux chocolates, and apricot pastries would suit us best. Presley had an additional struggle — whether to butter his croissants or just eat the creamy, salty butter by itself.

Dinner on our last night together, on rue Cler, may have been the best of all — rehashing and remembering the eight days of our special French adventure. Presley and Jo leave in the morning on their car trip to Italy by way of Switzerland while we remain in Paris for three more days before leaving for the Holy Land.

Every time we find ourselves in Paris, we look forward to visiting with Diane’s brother, Richard, and our sister-in-law Brigitte. We accepted their invitation for happy hour and were delighted when their son, Dylan, and his three-year-old son Joseph were there too. Once his Uncle René got down on the floor to play with trucks, Jojo warmed up in a flash. The four of us enjoyed dinner and an all-around-wonderful evening together.

Remember Claire and Louie Ducrot? They lived in LR for about ten years while engineer Louie worked at Falcon Jet/Dassault. They added so much to our LR community and we’ve remained fond friends. Louie fearlessly rides his motorcycle all over Paris with Claire as his enthusiastic passenger. We loved having dinner with them on our last night in Paris.

That’s all for now. Stay tuned for updates from the Holy Land.

—Renie and Diane

May 17, 2023